From the Loftsmith community

Smart key & glasses holder (male USB-C plug, wall keyholes)

A wall rail that gives your keys and glasses one place to land when you walk in. Four small hooks carry key tags, and a larger hook at the end takes a pair of glasses. There's a pocket on top for a XIAO board and a USB-C plug. Change the length to match your wall.

7 parts · 84 g · 273 × 34 × 65 mm

Long flat wall bar with four small hooks holding tags, a larger hook at the end, and a small box on top
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No adjustable sizes

Ask for the sizes you want to tweak, e.g. “make the width adjustable”.

Change it in the Studio

Parts

  • front body · PETG · Front face down, turned 37° corner to corner

    Press in the heat-set inserts before assembly.

  • back cover · PETG · Outer face down, turned 37°
  • key lever 1 · PETG · On its side with the hook flat on the bed
  • key lever 2 · PETG · On its side with the hook flat on the bed
  • key lever 3 · PETG · On its side with the hook flat on the bed
  • key lever 4 · PETG · On its side with the hook flat on the bed
  • glasses hook · PETG · On its side; about 1 g of support

Print settings

Layer height
0.2 mm
Walls
3
Infill
15%
Supports
Only under the glasses hook, about 1 g
Notes
Use a brim only if the large flat parts lift at the corners.

Hardware

  • 6 × M2 heat-set inserts
  • 6 × M2 countersunk screws (about 6 mm) · Check length for a 2.5 mm cover plus insert depth
  • 4 × Mini microswitch with lever, about 12.8 × 5.8 × 6.5 mm
  • USB-C controller board, about 18 × 23 mm · Assumed ESP32-C3 mini class
  • 2 × Double-sided foam tape, 20 × 240 mm strips

Assembly

  1. Press six M2 heat-set inserts into the bosses of the front body.
  2. Drop the controller board into its fenced bay with the USB-C port facing up.
  3. Place a microswitch in each cradle under a lever position.
  4. Slide the four key levers and the glasses hook onto their pins from the back.
  5. Fit the back cover and fasten it with six countersunk M2 screws.
  6. Stick two foam tape strips on the flat back and press the holder under the display.
  7. Plug in the USB-C lead from above and route it up and back toward the display.

Good to know

  • Board and switch sizes are assumptions: about 18 × 23 mm for an ESP32-C3 mini class board and 12.8 × 5.8 × 6.5 mm for the switches. Check them against your parts before printing; the sliders on Adjust change them.
  • Wiring from the switches to the board is not modelled, so run the wires yourself in the open bay.
  • The foam-tape holding strength and the switch click with light keys are estimates and haven't been tested. Print one lever and test it first.
  • The ghost key rings only graze the lever by 0.001 mm³ in the Use it animation. The report flags that as blocked, but it is only a contact between ghost and part.
  • The key rings are shown for context only and have no insert path. Real rings have to be tilted over the hook tip.
  • The front body has some thin-ledge and boxy-face warnings that I did not smooth out. The glasses hook may need about 1 g of support.
  • Each long piece's footprint on the MK4S bed is about 248 × 204 mm, so centre it and skip any wide skirt.
I printed this Remix

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