From the Loftsmith Workshop

Sim racing shift knob with round GC9A01 screen (TH8A M9)

A shift knob for your sim rig that puts a little round screen right on top, where your eyes already are when you grab the lever. The flared grip sits comfortably in your palm, and the ridged ring around the screen gives your fingers something to hold. Change the stem length and thread depth to suit your shifter.

2 parts · 54 g · 75 × 75 × 73 mm

by Loftsmith Workshop

Black flared shift knob with an orange ridged ring and a round opening on top, above a short threaded stem
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No adjustable sizes

Ask for the sizes you want to tweak, e.g. “make the width adjustable”.

Change it in the Studio

Parts

  • body · PLA (graphite) · Upright, stem end on the bed; lever thread and board pocket print vertical

    About 43 g, 66 min at 2 walls / 15%. Contains the printed lever thread, the board pocket and ledge, the wiring bay and the wire tunnel. A brim helps the 32.5 mm base hold on.

  • bezel · PLA (orange accent) · Window-down (top face on the bed)

    About 11 g, 19 min at 2 walls / 15%. 32.4 mm window, fluted grip and an internal thread with 42-degree flanks that prints without support.

Print settings

Layer height
0.16 mm (finer layers help the 1.25 mm lever thread)
Walls
3 recommended (page default 2)
Infill
15%
Supports
None
Notes
Page stats are for 2 walls and 15% infill: about 55 g and 1 h 28 min for both parts. At 3 walls and 15% infill, recommended so the lever thread has solid plastic behind it, it is about 65 g and 1 h 44 min. Print the body upright with a brim and the bezel window-down. PLA suits an indoor rig.

Hardware

  • GC9A01 1.28 in round display module (240 x 240) · Not included. Choose your outline in Display board: 44 x 36 generic, 50 x 36 red, 37.5 x 40.4 Waveshare or 38 x 45.5 ZeusDIY.
  • Thin hookup wires for the display header · A bundle up to the Wire bundle diameter slider (3-5 mm, default 4 mm), long enough to reach your controller along the lever.
  • Controller that drives the display from SimHub · Not part of this design; it sits off the knob at the end of the wires.
  • Thin foam or felt ring, about 0.5 mm (optional) · Goes under the bezel lip to protect the glass edge.

Assembly

  1. Print both parts. Screw the knob onto your lever by hand to test the thread before wiring. If it binds, raise Lever thread play (0.05 mm at a time) and reprint the body. If it wobbles, lower it.
  2. Feed the bare wire ends down from the wiring bay under the pocket, through the tunnel, and out at the bottom face beside the lever thread. Then solder them to the display header. The tunnel is closed, so no plug passes through it.
  3. Lay the board in the pocket glass-up with the pin-header end over the tunnel side. It rests on a ledge on three sides, and the header end is open to the wiring bay.
  4. Optionally lay a thin foam ring on the glass edge. Screw the bezel on clockwise until its lip meets the glass, about 1.7 turns of thread. Hand-tight is enough.
  5. Screw the knob onto the lever, run the wires down the lever to your controller and tie them along it. Rotate the screen image in software so the gear digit reads upright wherever the thread stops. A lock nut on the lever, if yours has one, can set the angle instead.
  6. To service the screen, unscrew the bezel (two turns frees it) and lift the board out. The knob can stay on the lever.

Good to know

  • Sim rigs only. Do not fit it in a real car: PLA softens at about 55 °C and a parked car's interior gets much hotter, and a shift knob is not a part to trust to a print.
  • Board outlines are treated as rectangles, with the round glass centred across the board and touching the end away from the pin header. If your glass sits closer to the pins, set Glass shift toward the pin header. Measure your module's PCB + glass thickness and set Display module thickness.
  • The printed M9 x 1.25 thread has 0.43 mm of radial tooth overlap at the default play. How well it bites depends on your printer, so test the fit first. The strength checks assume a 100 N shove on the head doubled for a slam and a 300 N pull. They are estimates, not test results.
  • Large boards make a large knob: about 74.5 mm across for the 44 x 36 board and 84.7 mm for the 50 x 36 board.
  • Wire routing assumes a flexible bundle that bends no tighter than 5 times its diameter. The wiring bay under the board is 8 mm deep, so tall parts on the back of a board may not fit.
  • Checked in the Loftsmith engine only. It has not been printed or tested on a shifter.
I printed this Remix

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